Nestled amongst the big player French ski resorts, ‘The Big Smoke ’ (as referred to by seasonaires) inhabits a population of just under 7,000. You’ll find typical French architecture along a cobbled alley of small independent restaurants, bars, and shops. From local handmade pottery and arts and soaps to funky interior boutiques, gifts, designer clothes and a barbershop, it’s a feel good place to potter around.
Saturday’s summer market hosts fresh fruit, vegetables, local charcuterie and cheeses, with select clothes and shoe stalls. It’s not massive but worth getting up for. When you’re done, grab shade in either of the bars opposite, both ideally located to cool off.
Pause Coffee & Kürtös has been very welcomed in the town with its contemporary cafe vibe. You can ask for a soya late without getting a weird look. Light bites, awesome salad bowls, cakes and their tasty Kürtös are on offer (with a takeaway option).
The best sun trap is Le Tonneau (the biggest terrace in town).
The traditional Savoyard dishes are Tartiflette (potatoes, reblochon cheese, lardons and onions), Crozet pasta (cooked with local cheese or with diots – a meaty and flavourful sausage), Raclette (a semi-hard cheese heated at your table; the melted cheese is scraped onto a selection of cured meats, boiled potatoes with salad and cornechons) and Fondue (served from the pan). A mixture of three Savoyard cheeses and white wine are melted together to a yummy gooey consistency – with chunks of bread to dip. These dishes are reasonably priced and probably found on the plat du jour menus.
Coopérative Laitière de Haute Tarentaise is a museum dedicated to Beaufort cheese. I know! The love of cheese here is immense. It’s a good visit, but be prepared for long queues at peak seasons. You can take home excellent local produce.
Bourg Saint Maurice station is ideally located amongst all this. This convenient link will connect to any town or city in Europe, with a direct train to London during winter (we hope)! watch this space. Please sign the petition to save the ski train #savetheskitrain.
Set beside the town and along the river (accessible with pushchairs) are tree-lined paths with a cycle route (and a pump track for all ages).
There are many places to stay in and around the area. Hotel Base Camp Lodge is a brand-new hotel. This trendy hub is built on the old army barracks. You can visit for drinks, lunch or dinner. Its large space is a great hangout for families.
